Cusco

Cusco Peru


Instead of forking out around 200BS for a trip to Cusco (around NZ $50), we decided to travel the local way. It started with a taxi guy trying to rip us off, initially saying 10Bs to get to the bus stop, then it changed to 15Bs once we were in the car. We took a rather full van to the border town of Desaguadero - a 2 Hour ride for 10Bs each. Once at the border, we were hounded (not to the extent of Southeast Asia) by 2 rickshaw drivers. Again, once we arrived at our muy lejos (very far) border destination 300m down the road, the driver demanded 5Bs each instead of just 5Bs for both. Across the border and finally in Peru, we took a larger bus to Puno - another 3 hour journey past Lake Titicaca. Here we had to choose between taking a taxi to Cusco (around 6 - 7 hours away) or an overnight bus and get to sleep an extra two hours in the bus once we arrive at Cusco. Derek and I certainly tossed up the tantilising offer of having a car drive us rather quickly to Cusco, but there were two men in the car already and despite the man's apparent credentials, Derek didn't want to get burnt twice by getting into a fake taxi so we took the overnight bus. Turns out I really can't sleep on overnight buses *sigh*. We arrived early in Cusco and got to sleep until around 5am. They kicked us off the bus and it appeared we were the only tourists in the entire bus terminal and three vulture-like hostel workers surrounded us trying to sell us their hostels. People have something against people walking here - we were told not to walk into town as it was muy lejos, muy lejos! Turns out its around 3 - 4km. Don't they know people come here to walk the 30-odd km to Machu Picchu? Granted most of the walk is done with donkeys and porters.
Cusco is just as touristy as you'd expect. But the old part of town itself is very cute with cobblestone streets, alleyways of artisans, hidden courtyards and a cafe that does simply excellent breakfasts.


The town had a celebration yesterday which I'm sure doesn't happen every Sunday but considering the level of tourists here, maybe it does. The marching band played, some noble people stood by the flagpole as both the Peruvian and Cusco flags were raised to blow in the wind and bask in the sun. There were traditionally dressed people dancing traditional dances. A group of 5 woman approached me, 4 holding baby goats, one pulling a llama on a rope, saying, "you take picture! you take picture! very cute very cute, you take picture!". Walking past repeating, "no gracias" with emphasis on the no, it was about 3 minutes later that they all came sprinting down the road past me, round the corner and they continued until they reached an alley that they hid in. I looked behind me to find two policeman calmly strolling down the road with the purpose of making these woman leave the plaza area and leave tourists alone.



These great siamese animals were on display in the museum. Along with these great tiny spiders. Clearly they are dead otherwise I wouldn't be anywhere near them.

There are four ruins around Cusco that cost a tourist 70soles for a day pass ($45NZ). Approached on the walk up to Saqsaywaman, we took the option of a horse trek to the other three ruins. Saqsaywaman means 'Satisfied Falcon' and sounds like 'sexy woman'. It's on the hill overlooking Cusco and was the site of the battle between the Spanish and Manco Inca. Thousands of dead lay at the site after the battle and attracted swarms of carrion-eating Andean condors. Some of the stones used to build the fort were between 5 - 7m high.
Derek's horse, Paloma, refused to let my horse, Capricornis, past her. Several reasons could be a) she liked being first or b) she wanted to set a slower pace because she was carrying Fat Derek on her back but in all likelihood, it was because Capricornis appeared to have a very bad case of the farts. We managed to get in front of Paloma for around 15 minutes and poor Paloma just got a face full of fart. "In your face Paloma!" Capricornis appeared to say.
Tambomachay and Pukapukara are two ruins close to each other. Tambomachay is 'El Bano del Inca' (Inca's bath) as it is a ceremonial bath that channels clear spring water. Pukapukara was another fort that had views of the valley of Cusco.
Pushed for time by the approaching thunder storm, our guide kept encouraging our horses to trot towards the last ruins, Q'enqo. Q'enqo apparently had many channels carved into it's ceremonious altar rocks, perhaps to channel blood. Bit hard to see with about 100 teenagers crawling all over the ruins. In the cave below, the rock forms a llamas head (see photo) complete with an eye.
On the way back, Paloma was adamant Capricornis was not going to get infront of her and so took on an approach perfected by Jane, of veering infront of Carpricornis whenever she looked like passing. This included while we were trotting/cantering down the home straight. poor horse. Bet she was glad to see Derek leave.

As always, Derek decided to try the local cuisine of Cuy (guineapig). I had no problem with him trying this until his dinner arrived at the table. Whole. Deep fried. With it's poor little mouth open. Suddenly I had difficulty eating my peanut soup. Roger became quite a spectacle as the man at the table next to us wanted to try some - his wife wouldn't let him order guinea pig. I went home to get the camera so we could have some photos with Roger. Poor little thing. Derek vowed to be vegetarian for a couple of days, just to help restabilise the karma.

RIP Roger.