Espresso
Malo
16 Riddiford St
Newtown
When it opened several years ago, Malo captured the imagination of multiculturalists, as both decor and menu sought to express the Newtown location: it offered a spicy Asian-Pacific infusion, including taro chips and some of the best whole Portobello mushrooms I've yet tasted (oven-poached in olive oil and then left to steep at room temperature till needed). These days, the funky decor still survives in its original state, with the feature wall and the bar fronted with patchworks of Samoan fine mats.
However, the lime green walls now show a few dings and the painted concrete floor is in transition, from the distressed look to outright baldness; needless to say, the original owner has long since sold up and departed, along with his chef. The menu has become markedly less adventurous, for dinner and especially for mid-week lunch, aiming for mainstream safety with burgers and fries, steak-and-onion sandwiches and the like. The best reason still to come here is the coffee, which remains great; the barista is kept pumping and nowadays there is an interesting point of difference in the beans, from Gravity - an Auckland roasting heavyweight that has not made many inroads into the tight Wellington market as yet. Gravity's main blend show lovely full, broad flavours and good acidity, but the real standout is its texture: a short black from Malo has a full body that carries through to a long, lingering finish, creamily smooth and free of bitterness.
David Burton
Comments:
Ahh, all I can say about this is OBVIOUSLY Gravity paid this guy a lot of money. No harm done to us though :) Mmm and who is that drinking the coffee in the front of the picture???